Catonsville Gourmet - In the Baltimore Sunpaper

Table Talk: Seafood is king at Catonsville spot
Catonsville Gourmet, on Frederick Road, is both an 80-seat restaurant and a gourmet market. (Sun photo by Monica Lopossay / March 21, 2008)
By Elizabeth Large Sun Restaurant Critic
March 26, 2008

Sean Dunsworth has been in the wholesale seafood business for the past decade, and his partner, Robert Rehmert, has worked in the kitchens of places as diverse as Tiber River Tavern in Ellicott City, Radisson Plaza Lord Baltimore downtown and Rocky Gap Lodge and Golf Resort in Cumberland. Together, they should be able to produce some very fresh fish at their new venture, Catonsville Gourmet (829 Frederick Road, 410-788-0005) in Catonsville.It's primarily an 80-seat restaurant that serves classic American seafood with an Asian accent; but it's also a gourmet market, with cases in the back of the second dining room containing seafood, meats, prepared foods and desserts to take out.The location where the Muir Hardware store once was has been extensively renovated and has what Dunsworth calls an "eclectic, antique look" and a bistro feel, with paper covering white tablecloths.The heart of the menu is a daily offering of six different fish. Customers pick the method of cooking and the sauce they want. Three or four different oysters are available every day at the oyster bar, along with clams and mussels. The Asian influence is obvious in dishes like crispy crab won tons and tempura nori tuna roll, both appetizers.
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Filet Four Ways dish Photo
The owners are hoping to get a beer and wine license, but right now the place is BYOB, with a $5 corkage fee per table, not bottle."People must like it," Dunsworth says. "We threw away a hundred empty bottles this week."Catonsville Gourmet is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Send restaurant news, trends, questions of general interest or observations to me at elizabeth.large@baltsun.com or fax me at 410-783-2519. Snail mail works, too: Elizabeth Large, The Sun, P.O. Box 1377, Baltimore 21278.